Saigon and the Mekong Delta

Saigon: Modern Chaos with a Distinctive Flavor

Saigon is simply vibrant. Officially it’s Ho Chi Minh City, but locals still favor the older name — perhaps with the exception of party loyalists (none of whom I met). Unlike Hanoi, Saigon feels younger, its downtown a mix of gleaming towers and old buildings mid-demolition.

From rooftop bars overlooking the river, Saigon looks like a wealthy, modern metropolis. Yet that modernity contrasts sharply with the poverty in outer districts and rural areas. The median income here is about one-fifteenth of the U.S. level. Still, wealth measured in dollars isn’t the whole story.  What I think I’ve learned (or re-learned) is that wealth measured monetarily is not always such a great measure.  It turns out crossing the street here is less a gamble and more a dance. Drivers swerve, brake, and smile — honking not in anger but as a cheerful ‘I’m here!’ reminder.  And it just seems Vietnamese are indeed quite happy with their lot.  And according to their definition of poverty, they have one of the lowest rates in the world.

So, to the visits … we first walked through the older part of town, with more than few colonial era buildings.  The French Colonial Post office, for which you will see some pics (click here) was impressive.  Told important artists and scientists were memorialized across the façade, I was surprised to find an American … Ben Franklin … among them.  I take back anything bad I ever might have said about the French!!  Other colonial era buildings include City Hall and an Opera House … somehow, they are all rather seamlessly integrated within the whole of the city. 

You’ll note a very colorful Caodaist temple, a monotheistic religion born in Vietnam in the early 20^th century.  I started to write it was unusual, but much of Vietnam is highly colorful … so maybe just a slightly better exemplar.

The following day we visited the War Remnants Museum which depicted the brutality of the conflict, though it glossed over the North’s own violations of wartime law (and let’s be honest, the Americans weren’t saints either).  I occasionally get lightheaded when I’ve not eaten enough and that happened during the tour … I took a cab back to the hotel and, like always, was fine after an hour laying down.   But I missed the tour of China Town and shopping … and NO, I did not fake the lightheadedness to back out of shopping tour.  Another tour member and I ended up spending the afternoon walking around town and having dinner in a different rooftop hotel bar with a magnificent view of the river. 

 

The Mekong Delta: Boats, Tuk Tuks and Natural Beauty.

On Monday, we drove to the Mekong River delta.  You’ll note in the photos, plenty of flotsam in the dark brown river and its tributaries largely from the flooding throughout Vietnam.  A boat took us across the river where we visited a place that I never quite understood, they had bees and were environmentally active … but ok, next.  We boarded narrow boats rowed by standing oarsmen who glided us through lush tributaries. Photos don’t do it justice – we kept pointing out birds and plants like excited schoolkids. At a family farm we sampled tropical fruits, cooed over a charming baby, and then hopped onto Tuk Tuks for a bumpy ride through the forest to lunch. 

It was a wonderful day; but with boat and bus we got back to Saigon in the evening where we again spent time on the rooftop bar laughing and just enjoying ourselves.

 

Last day …

Our last day offered a morning excursion to see Viet Cong tunnel systems, only a few went and the rest of us had a full day to ourselves.  I ended up in a taxi with four women to Landmark 81, the tallest building in Saigon.  First off, four people in the backseat of a taxi is a bit cozy … but somehow we pulled it off both directions.  We even had the taxi driver (who spoke neither English nor German) in stitches with various antics underway.  From 1,513 feet up, the view was staggering — the city seemed endless, as if Saigon refused to admit it had edges.

We wandered downtown and found a nice café for lunch where we watched several young Vietnamese strike model-worthy poses for what my companions believed to be Instagram posts. Suffice it to say, this old guy from Missouri didn’t quite get the influencer thing. 

My last adventure wasn’t glamorous: stumbling into a pharmacy with eyes like ripe tomatoes. The pharmacist spoke passable English, was kind, and sold me two meds for less than a dollar.  This would develop into a full head cold as our flight neared Germany.   

A few people had their own transportation set for the return.  For example, Katja, our Swiss teammate, was off to Bangkok for three days before heading further west to Europe.  Everyone else departed the hotel by bus for the midnight flight to Frankfurt.  Underway, we capped the trip with one last rooftop bar (with infinity pool), spectacular view, mediocre cocktails, and fantastic camaraderie. A perfect finale to a magnificent journey. 

Wet, Flooded, and Fabulous … Four Days Around Hoi An and Da Nang

 

 Two weeks before our arrival, central Vietnam was hit by torrential rain and flooding, followed a week later by a powerful typhoon. The resilience of the Vietnamese people was remarkable—the speed of cleanup at hotels and tourist areas was incredible, even if plenty of debris still lingered outside the main tourist zones. It rained most of the four days we were there; the floodwaters had receded but were far from gone. Studiosus canceled the bike ride through the rice paddies, giving us an unexpected free morning to rest, along with a few other minor itinerary shifts.

Countless photos were taken during those days – a smaller selection can be found by clicking here.

On Wednesday afternoon we finally explored Hoi An’s Old Town, an ancient port city that has remained astonishingly unchanged. One photo shows a group of white-caped visitors standing behind a doorway with inscriptions. Zoom in, and you’ll see the flood line from just three weeks earlier—waist-high on a gentleman in the frame. We were stunned, as the house showed little damage beyond its age. The town offered beautiful art and almost anything you could imagine, all housed in centuries-old buildings, often with families still living in the back.

Thursday took us to the ruins of My Son, once the capital of the Champa Kingdom, a culture deeply influenced by Hinduism. The site had been largely intact until U.S. bombers targeted Vietcong hiding there; today it is slowly being rebuilt with funding from India. Many of us were as captivated by the lush tropical forest and dramatic terrain as by the ruins themselves. On our way out, we were treated to a traditional dance performance.

Later that day came another cooking class. One photo shows me triumphantly flipping a pancake-like dish into the air – less graceful was a second later, I didn’t exactly nail the landing. Speaking of silly photos, I included one where I appear to be dancing, though I have no idea why I struck that pose. I do, however, know why I ended up on a small bronze horse. After Brigitta elegantly rode the same goofy steed, someone suggested I should try. I replied only if Andreas went first – to my surprise, he took the dare. Teenagers again, what can I say. The horse was stationed at a French fort atop a mountain pass, complete with fog and rain gear.

After the cooking course, we took rickshaws through Da Nang for about 30 minutes. I’m still undecided which is more nerve-wracking: riding through heavy Vietnamese traffic in the front seat of a taxi at night or sitting exposed in the front of a rickshaw. Both were … errrr … experiences.

Friday brought us to Hue’s Forbidden City, another UNESCO World Heritage site and former seat of the Vietnamese monarchy. Like My Son, it was heavily damaged by U.S. bombing but is now being restored. Even in partial reconstruction, it was breathtaking as the pictures show. We returned to the hotel that evening in time to pack for the early drive Saturday back to Da Nang airport and our flight to Ho Chi Minh City – although even the locals seem to use the name Saigon.

North Vietnam’s magnificent natural beauty meets a rowdy, fun-loving crowd of single strangers

Northern Vietnam’s natural beauty was simply astonishing.  Ha Long Bay’s iconic karst outcroppings, famously featured in films like James Bond – are every bit as dramatic in person. Towering limestone cliffs, hidden caves, and natural tunnels lead to secluded bays that feel almost otherworldly – it is all just as dramatic as you would think.

Inland, the scenery remains breathtaking. Ninh Binh, often called “Ha Long Bay on land,” offers lush landscapes where water winds through rice paddies and steep hills.  The photos (click here) offer only a glimpse, and though haze muted those in the bay, the grandeur is unmistakable.

           Studiosus, the tour company, promises “intensive life” experiences rich in culture. Some of their offerings caters specifically to solo travelers—and while “heavy culture” might sound dry, this crew is anything but. We’re 22 strangers: 6 men, 16 women, averaging perhaps 60ish years old. It is hard to imagine a livelier or more fun group.

We span a wide range of professions and dialects from across Germany, plus a Swiss, an Austrian, a Hungarian, and a guy from Missouri. I introduced myself in (ok, somewhat accented) German as hailing from the Upper Palatinate, where I’ve lived for 33 years. That got quite a laugh and, apparently, the first joke of the trip. Our seasoned guide later told someone we were the loudest and most fun group she’d ever led. We took it as a badge of honor.

           In the photos you’ll notice we took boats along the Ngo-Dong River through natural tunnels.  But if you look closely, you’ll also note that most of the rowers (the majority women) use their feet and legs rather than hands and arms … something I’d never seen.  A wonderful hour through magnificent landscape.  On the way to Ninh Bihn, we stopped by a Buddhist Temple in a steep hillside, before checking into the hotel.  Several of us wandered through town and stumbled on a Vietnamese version of a beer garden … the food was so-so but the atmosphere quite enjoyable (one table of German’s louder than the rest). 

           The following day, we departed early for a three-hour drive to Ha Long Bay and our Junk Boat.  I’d imagined a modest wooden boat from the movies. What we got was the Victory Star – a far more luxurious vessel, complete with private balconies, full baths, and a top deck perfect for soaking in the view. The food was superb, the crew gracious, and the scenery – those countless islands – was unforgettable. We climbed a island hill for pictures, visited two fantastic caves, and enjoyed a wonderful evening aboard.

           The next morning began with Tai Chi at sunrise (a comedy film of my attempt was thankfully not made), followed by a bamboo boat or kayak ride through yet another natural tunnel; most of us opting for kayaks. We emerged into a stunning bay encircled by sheer cliffs – and a few goats. Being the first group through, we had majesty to ourselves for a while. Then the mood shifted as many more boats arrived at which point we turned into Ozark teenagers, ramming kayaks and laughing like kids. “Middle-aged” might be a generous description of some of us, but damn, that was fun. 

Sorry, there aren’t many pics with the kayaks, most of us weren’t comfortable taking cameras.  After a quite nice brunch on board underway, we departed for Hanoi’s airport, a delayed flight to Da Nang and bus to our hotel in Hoi An – an ancient trade town with Chinese & Japanese influences which is a UN World Heritage Site.  A significant storm delayed the flight and as I write flooding in Hoi An scrubbed the morning’s activities.  But we’ve rain jackets and will depart soon for wherever they want to take us (spoiler for next post, the afternoon was great, if a bit wet!).